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In Exhibition.. Paris Haute Couture at Hotel de Ville part 2

Rue de la Paix, The birthplace of haute couture

Crossing point between the Tuileries, the centre of nobility, and the Grands Boulevards, the place where socialite having fun, Rue de la Paix is the main stem where haute couture establish in the middle of nineteenth century.

In 1840, the grandparents of Jacques Doucet establish their luxury lingerie boutique at number 17. The couturier Worth, considered as The founder of Parisian haute couture, established at his home in 1858.

At the end of the nineteenth century appear new brands: Paquin at N° 3 in 1891, Boué Sisters at N° 9 in 1899.

Around this “sacred way” as the named Paul Poiret, the whole neighborhood is the epicenter of the luxury trade, also benefiting from the installation of large hotels where converges cosmopolitan and wealthy population.

Located in the extension of the Rue de la Paix, Place Vendome welcomes Beer, Martial & Armand from 1905 Chéruit in 1906. Lucien Lelong moved to 18 place de la Madeleine at the same time.

The golden age of Western Paris.

In 1909, The Kingdom of the seam was established in the neighborhood of the newly built Opéra. Paul Poiret, on the rise, decides to leave the rue Pasquier for a mansion near the Champs-Élysées. This area is mostly residential so: along the broad avenues successive bourgeois buildings and large mansions belonging to the aristocracy easy. At the heart of this microcosm of elegance, The Avenue des Champs-Élysées is the new place to stroll The elegant want to be seen.

At the same time, avenue Montaigne, The great work of the Plaza-Athénée and The Théâtre des Champs-Élysées begin gradually, antique shops, tailors, perfumers, flocking around the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

This trend accelerated after the war: Madeleine Vionnet left the Rue de Rivoli for the 50 Avenue Montaigne in 1922. The same year, and Philippe Gaston move in at 120 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, followed by Boué sisters in 1928 Maggy Rouff in 1929, Jacques Heim in 1934.

All designers do not follow this movement remains faithful to Chanel Rue Cambon where she moved in 1910, Schiaparelli chose the Place Vendome for his house in 1927. However, the nerve center of haute couture has indeed moved to the west of Paris.

This trend has continued over the following decades: Dior Avenue Montaigne stood in 1946, Givenchy Avenue George V in 1959, Yves Saint Laurent Avenue Marceau in 1974. More recently, in the geographical tradition of the golden age of couture, Christian Lacroix chooses the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in 1987 and Azzedine Alaïa Rue du Parc-Royal in 1985.

A new movement starts today, the exact opposite of the previous. Fashion houses stood around the Royal Palace and to the east of Paris, in the Marais district.

In connection with the changing economic sector and real estate developments, new fashion houses now weave a network of confidential addresses in the 1st or 10th arrondissements away from ostentatious concern for their elders.

Thus, Jean Paul Gaultier moved rue Saint-Martin, Martin Margiela rue Saint-Maur, Bouchra Jarra, rue de Clery and Anne Valérie Hash boulevard Bonne Nouvelle.

Photo second above:
Gouache, graphite pencil, ink, sample 1925. Lucien lelong (1889-1952). Copyright: Musée Galliera / Roger Violet.
Documents sources:
Marie de Paris, l’Hôtel de Ville

Isna Darmuis-Menneveux

Always lost in Paris. A fashion observer, food explorer, an Indonesian woman lives in Paris who loves to discover new things and frame it to her camera.